Teochew Braised Duck – The Secret is in the Sauce!

Hi Makan Kakis, some of you might find the name Ah Xiao Teochew Braised Duck familiar because the original (and famous) stall can be found at Golden Mile Market & Food Centre along Beach Road. This one in Bendeemer is run by the couple’s son and enjoys equally brisk business, so be prepared for long lines. I arrived just after opening at 10.30am on a Sunday morning and found several others already in the queue – one gentleman told me he’d arrived before 10am and he was still waiting. I was informed my wait time would be more than 30 minutes, so I prepared myself to kill time. All this, because Chef Petrina Loh of Morsels, our Foodie Friend and self-confessed lover of all things braised and Teochew recommended I try it!

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Chef Petrina describes the braised duck here as very Teochew and  very traditional. It’s a favourite of her mother’s and keeping things in the culinary family, Ah Xiao Teochew Braised Duck at Bendeemer happens to be run by one of her former Morsels chefs, so the connection is strong! Personal relationship aside though, this is braised duck with really high standards. 

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ROJAK LOHEI & TOM YUM NGOH HIANG FOR CNY?

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Hello Makan Kakis! Just a few days to the Lunar New Year and if you’re looking for interesting bites for your festive feasts, go the takeaway/ delivery route with these two unique finds…

IMG_8715Firstly, remember this Joo Chiat stall we previously featured? Lim Bo Fresh Fruits Rojak has come up with a fun rendition of the traditional yusheng toss, using the basic building blocks of their signature rojak. And if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. Fresh fruits and vegetables, a tasty sauce and crunchy toppings are also the component parts of Lohei and so the Lim Bo Fruit Rojak LoHei ($32.80) was born. Arranged just like a classic yusheng set, Pomegranate, Pomelo, Green Mango, Guava, Jambu (Rose Apple), shredded Daikon, Green Radish and Carrot are laid out in circular fashion in a platter, to be topped with Crushed Peanuts, You Tiao Croutons (deeply golden brown and twice-fried for extra crunchiness), Fried Fish Skin, Crispy Prawn Fritters and finished with their Signature Rojak Sauce.

IMG_8703Just like their unique rojak, this lohei set makes for a wonderful alternative to the usual. The chilled, colourful fruits and veg provide sweet and tart crunchy freshness, whilst the deep-fried toppings give irresistable crispiness and savoury, seafood umami. The slow-cooked prawn paste rojak sauce amplifies said umami and when drizzled sparingly, a lovely rounded sweetness and a touch of tamarind tang.

IMG_8704I love that unlike rojak which is already mixed for you, this lohei set allows you to control how much of each ingredient and sauce to add, for the perfect customisable experience according to personal preference. In fact, you can also Double Huat your order with an add-on of abalone ($48.80), or even opt for a vegetarian version. Each portion serves 4-6 comfortably.

IMG_8712Stall owner Leong Gwo Wei advised me to crown the entire platter with the large prawn fritter disc and together with family or friends, smash it first, before tossing with everything else. My family and I did, with a loud shout of “HUAT”! Of course, raucous & messy mixing ensued!
Lim Bo’s Fruit Rojak LoHei is available in limited quantities from now till 15th February and is made to order daily.
TASTE:
Lim Bo Fruit Rojak LoHei
Dine-in or takeaway from 64 Joo Chiat Place, Singapore 427786
To order, WhatsApp +65 97111342 (delivery with fee also available)
CNY orders for 29th Jan – 4th Feb to be placed by 28th Jan.
That’s not all!
In my family, Ngoh Hiang (lovingly homemade by a beloved Auntie) is a must for our Chinese New Year celebrations. Beancurd skin encasing a savoury filling of minced meat and vegetables, then deep-fried till golden and crispy? Yes, please! For those who don’t have the luxury of having a homemade supply, check out Yummyrollz, a home-based business specialising in classic favourites like ngoh hiang, hei zho (prawn rolls) and other home-cooked dishes.
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Ordering was a simple affair, I followed a link on their instagram @yummyrollz (or via their facebook, if you prefer), selected from their online menu, chose my pickup/ delivery date and confirmed my order with them via WhatsApp.
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In the celebratory spirit of sharing this festive season, I went with their Best of Trio, featuring three of their most popular snacks – ten pieces each of Signature Ngoh Hiang (五香), Crispy Crunchy Prawn Roll (Hei Zho 虾枣) and Tom Yum Seafood Ngoh Hiang. For $35, you can choose to have them ready-to-eat and fried, or chilled if you prefer cooking them yourself.

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I opted to do a pickup and my ready-fried order was waiting when I arrived, neatly packed in a labelled box, along with two little containers of a sweet & tangy sour plum syrup and sambal belacan. The snacks were good to eat at room temperature, but a blast in the toaster oven crisped them right up. Alternative heating instructions for air fryer or regular oven also came with the box.

IMG_8594Yummyrollz’s Signature Ngoh Hiang are described as “bite-sized” (ok, maybe 2 bites!), flatter, rectangular beancurd skin parcels filled with an “almost an equal ratio portion of minced pork and chopped prawns (not minced)”. Water chestnut, carrot and a hint of celery add crunch and contrast to the softer textures of protein.

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Of the three, this was the sweetest and most mellow of flavours, marinaded with their secret “superior grade seasoning sauces”. Paired with the spicy and intense sambal belacan, each bite was beautifully balanced.

IMG_8707The Crunchy Hei Zho came cut into thick cubes, densely packed with chunks of prawns and water chestnuts. The savoury, seafood flavour was front and centre with these crispy, crustaceous nuggets.

IMG_8604Last, but not least, the special flavour that caught my attention: Tom Yum Ngoh Hiang. Purists might balk, but it totally worked! I loved the additional spicy, sour, salty notes the Tom Yum brought to the basic Ngoh Hiang recipe. This flavour twist was much punchier, yet was subtle enough not to overpower the original flavours of meat and vegetable filling.

IMG_8709Presented as slim little cylinders with extra-crispy crimped ends (almost like sweets), these rolls were shaped differently to avoid confusion. These were good enough to eat alone, but for sweetness, slather liberally with the golden elixir provided.

IMG_8607For these Thai-inspired treats, I skipped the sambal belacan to avoid interferring with the tom yum notes.

IMG_8602But it has to be said, eaten with the other snacks, their Hand Pounded Sambal Belacan Chilli was a winner. Rustically pounded in a traditional mortar & pestle, the chunky chilli paste was redolent with umami belacan and mouth-wateringly hot from both red and green chillis – seeds in! I only wished there was more to go round. That’s probably why 180g jars are available for purchase at $10.00!

IMG_8608For anyone who doesn’t like pork or seafood, look out for their Fried Satay Chicken Ngoh Hiang (18pcs for ) $25.00. A filling of sliced & minced chicken, big onions, cucumbers and chunky water chestnut, mixed with a homemade satay marinade, is enfolded in crispy beancurd skin and served with Satay sauce.

For me & my family, the sambal belacan & Tom Yum Ngoh Hiang were the stars, enough to warrant a return to order their intriguing Satay Chicken Ngoh Hiang, which isn’t available till after 30 January. Fortunately, their February dates have already been announced online, so go give Yummyrollz a try for your CNY party.

IMG_8708Apart from the Best of Trio, you can also opt for other order combos and even their Heng Hwa Fried Bee Hoon, made using Taiwan Hshinchu Vermicelli and seafood like clams (lala), prawns, dried scallops, mushrooms, fried beancurd and veggies ($16.00). Another home-cooked dish is their Hokkien-style Glutinous Rice with marinated pork belly, dried shrimps & mushrooms, topped with fried silver fish and chinese sausage ($10.00).

TASTE:
YUMMYROLLZ NGOH HIANG
Order online/ Whats App.

Minimum order $40.00, free delivery $70.00 & above, flat delivery fee $8.00.
Payment via PayNow and Bank Transfer only.

GOOD OLD-FASHIONED ZICHAR (EAST COAST RD)

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Hi Makan Kakis! This week, our foodie friend Lyn Lee of Awfully Chocolate & Sinpopo Brand returns to take us back to her beloved Katong neighbourhood for one of her favourite zi char places.

Sin Hoi Sai Eating House on East Coast Road is a familar Katong family-run business that Lyn has been patronising for a long time, so much so that matriach Madam Yap has become a friend. According to Lyn, Madam Yap has been working since she was 14 years old and her brother is the head chef in kitchen of the zichar restaurant they started in 1981.

Covid-19 safety measures and dining restrictions really hurt them, but it’s heartening to see them still soldiering on and making efforts to pivot. Whilst dining groups remain painfully small, kerb-side pickups and online orders/ delivery are available.

So what’s good to eat at Sin Hoi Sai? Read on for Lyn’s recommendations!

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Mutton Meets Medicine in this Mild, Herbal Soup

I’ve always enjoyed a bowl of mutton soup, so when my Makan Kaki, Chef Shen Tan of Newton nasi lemak stall OG Lemak recommended I try one in my neighbourhood, I was more than keen. Until I realized it wasn’t the spicy sup kambing I had assumed. She was suggesting a mutton soup of the Chinese herbal variety, which brought flashbacks of unpleasant previous encounters with bitter TCM concoctions. However, Chef Shen proclaimed it hearty, heart-warming and not overtly herbal, so in the name of adventurous eating, I agreed to pay Hong Wen Mutton Soup a visit.

img_8466Fans might be more familiar with the stall at Beauty World Food Centre, but when I stopped by, they recommended I check out their branch instead, with the promise that both stalls were run by the same family, using the same recipe. I traipsed diagonally across the road to meet Mr Tan Voon Kui, 61, who told me they expanded the family business to Bukit Timah Food Centre around 8 years ago in 2013.

A large sign at the front of his stall was emblazoned with the words “Old Beauty World”, in a nod to Hong Wen Mutton Soup’s heritage and his father’s beginnings as a street hawker in the area more than fifty years ago. His younger brother still operates the Beauty World stall, where they’ve been since the mid-eighties.

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Nourishing, palate-cleansing Teochew fish porridge

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After weeks of excessive eating, my stomach was protesting. I have to admit I was ready to throw in the fork, spoon and chopsticks. Imagine the relief to hear from my Makan Kaki, Chef Heman Tan of Moonbow at Dempsey, who suggested I reset my body with something pristine and nourishing. As a chef of Modern European cuisine, this stall in Bukit Timah Food Centre is his first stop when he’s in need of a respite from the rich foods he usually whips up in his restaurant. So in times of overindulgence, pay penance at Quan Xiang Fish Porridge with a bowl of their palate-cleansing Teochew-style signature.

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Under the stall’s name, a menu board with the words “lao zi hao” (老字号) printed in large Chinese characters greets you. Roughly translated to “renowned old brand or established enterprise”, both are true for Quan Xiang, a proudly Teochew family business that had its beginnings in 1966 as a roadside pushcart. Stall owner Mr Loh Chee Song told me that his father first began selling his signature fish porridge at the now-defunct Beauty World Market, until frequent fires encouraged the move to their current location in Bukit Timah Food Centre in 1976.

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The business, along with their closely-guarded family recipe, was passed down to Mr Loh in 1999 and for over two decades, he has been perfecting his father’s legacy. When it comes to traditional Teochew-style fish porridge, the emphasis is on retaining the fresh taste of fish, without any overt seasonings or extra ingredients to sully its purity. Unlike other types of Asian fish soup or porridge, no tofu, tomato, seaweed or lard is added. It needs to be very clean and unadulterated, so as to let the main ingredient shine. In Quan Xiang’s case, they use either batang (Spanish mackerel) or the less common wild red garoupa. The freshest they can find.

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Chef Damian D’Silva Loves Fish with this Teochew Porridge

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Masterchef Singapore Judge Chef Damian D’Silva loves porridge. Specifically Teochew-style porridge – the plain, watery rice kind served steaming hot with a whole array of cooked dishes. Despite his solidly Eurasian-Peranakan roots, his heart & stomach begin and end with porridge. So much so that he says that would be his last meal because there’s just something so soul satisfying about it.

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Kway Chap: Year of the Pig with a Little Duck Thrown In!

Greetings & Salutations, Greedies! Happy New Year and we’re back after a teensy hiatus, just in time to welcome a returning Foodie Friend who can always be counted on to bring us new & unusual makan recommendations. Since we last talked food with Chef Shen Tan, she has embarked on a wildly popular private home dining supper series, cheekily called OWNSELF MAKE CHEF, featuring quality ingredients and ingenious riffs on familiar, local dishes. What you get is South East Asian flavours you’ll recognise, but elevated and no less delicious – sop buntut with Wagyu beef or twice steamed Nasi Lemak with grilled King prawn and lard sambal, anyone? With 13 (and counting) specially curated themed menus, Chef Shen’s culinary creativity is on the up and up! She even offers cooking classes now (fully booked till March, but hey, book now and you can get a class in April!), so that you can eat and learn how to make her bold style of food.

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And of course when Chef Shen isn’t busy cooking up a storm for her guests, she’s out and about discovering new makan obsessions to share with us, one of which is a Teochew braised duck that she absolutely adores. Melvin is a second generation hawker who is carrying on his father’s legacy with this stall at Chinatown Complex. His mother still helps him and business is brisk because they serve really delicious food!

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Late Night Porridge Supper

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Hey Makan Kakis, if you’re in search of a soul-satisfying bowl of late-night goodness, our foodie friend, Chef-Owner of Le Binchotan, Jeremmy Chiam has just the place to recommend! Like most chefs, he finds himself hungry and looking for a supper joint after he’s done with a long, hard day of service at his restaurant. By the time he gets to eat, it’s usually past 1am. Enter this Old Havelock Road institution, whose food reminds Chef Jeremmy of his Grandma’s home-cooking. If it’s a steaming bowl of Teochew porridge with hearty side dishes that you’re craving, remember Lim Joo Hin!

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